By Mark Levisay

Raised beds don’t have to be complicated, or expensive. Their main function is to enhance drainage in rainy weather, and allow you to enhance the soil, especially if your area has a lot of rocks or clay. Three or four inches is all you need to achieve those goals.

Size and access

Let’s think first about bed size and access. You should be able to easily reach into the center of any bed you build, so your arm length may be the ultimate guide for bed width. If your garden has a fence, you can make beds along the fence 2 feet wide or so, which allows easy access from just one side, and can support large plants such as a row of tomatoes or peppers, or lots of smaller plants. In areas where your bed will allow access from both sides, four or even five foot wide beds can work. A bed this size could contain two rows of peppers or tomato plants, or even three rows of something like beans or beets. Just remember you want to be able to easily reach the center of the bed, as you never want to step in the bed to avoid compaction.

Bed length is determined by your overall garden space. Some folks go with a “four square’ that is four feet on every side, with easy access from any side. Many of my beds are twenty feet long, as row cover material often comes in either 20’ or 50’ lengths (I cut that in half and use two 6’ wide strips to cover a 5’wide bed).

You should leave “paths” between your beds to allow easy access for you and maybe a wheelbarrow or wagon so you can get your tools and produce in and out. Three feet or so should be plenty for a path.

Soil

You don’t need fancy soil for your raised beds, especially if you are building them in an existing garden space. The nearest source could be your designated pathways. Dig a few inches of soil out of your path, and pile that on your beds. Mulch the path to keep your feet out of the mud, and you’re good to go! If you have a really rocky site, or one with heavy clay, you may need to bring in soil. There are numerous local contractors who can deliver really nice “top” soil by the yard, or for smaller projects you can buy bagged products. Some are even called “raised bed soil” which seem to contain a lot of organic matter to promote good drainage. Always plan to use some amount of mulch on the top of the soil, which will inhibit erosion and soil splash (especially important for tomatoes) and retain moisture in dry weather.

Structure

Do you really need to have physical edgings for your raised beds? You don’t really need edging, especially if you have a fairly level site. If you’re on a slope, physical borders can help create terraces that create level beds on the slope. Edgings can also give you a place to kneel when you access the beds for planting, weeding or harvesting. I’ve used a lot of landscape timbers over the years but found that they rot out pretty quickly. I may switch to landscape blocks which are designed for retaining walls and garden edges. This may cost a little more but should be permanent. Railroad ties, bricks, logs, or cedar boards (naturally rot resistant) will also work depending on your site and what you feel comfortable working with.

If you put in a little up front effort you’ll have garden beds that will work well for you in any kind of weather for years to come. Good luck!

Have a garden question? Send me an email at marklevisay@gmail.com.

by Mark Levisay

March is actually a pretty good time to be home, as there are many things in the garden that need your attention. Indoors you can be starting seeds, such as tomato, pepper, and basil next to a bright sunny window or with some good artificial lighting. Planning the layout of your vegetable or flower garden is another way to use your time and be ahead of the game when planting time rolls around.

Outdoors there are lots of things to keep you busy.

Do you have a fenced in area for your vegetables? If not, put one up! 60” welded wire fencing will keep the deer out, and you’ll probably need to build one or more gates for access to your garden. Ever think about raised beds? This is a perfect time to build them, so they’re ready to go—the sooner the better. Mulching the paths between the beds is a good idea, as it will keep your feet out of the mud after big spring rains.

If you already have an established garden, now is the time to clean out dead plants, leaves and other winter debris from your beds. Weeding is crucially important, as any weeds that are already blooming are ready to set seed for their next generation. Getting ahead of weeds now will really help later on in the summer. I spread pelletized lime on my beds every couple of years to help counteract the many acidifying factors, such as fertilizer, mulch, and rainfall that affect your beds. If you have an asparagus bed you can also fertilize it now, as the spears should start to appear in April.

Have you thought about using row cover material to protect vegetables like broccoli and cabbage from worms? This is a perfect time to set up your supports, and lay out a soaker hose where your plants will go. The soaker hose makes it much more convenient to water once the cover goes on. Buy your plants, set them, and then cover. No more broccoli worms! As a warning, kale is in the same family, so growing it under cover will help protect it from the worms.

As far as actual planting goes, mid-March already getting late for peas and spinach, but you can try if you haven’t already planted them. Lettuce and beets should wait until later in the month, unless they’re going under a row cover. Same with broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower and brussels sprouts. Plant now under cover, or wait a week or two to set out in the open. We’re more than a month away from putting out things like tomatoes, peppers, beans, and squash, but you can plan for where they’ll go. Poles for training tomatoes or for climbing pole beans and fencing for cucumbers can go up now, and you’ll be ready to go when the time is right to plant them.

Take advantage of any extra time you have to invest in your garden now, and you’ll reap the rewards later this summer!

Have a garden question? Send me an email at marklevisay@gmail.com.