April activities in the garden

by Mark Levisay

As we head into April our gardening activities will pick up, especially outdoors as the weather warms.  Seed starting projects indoors will come to an end, and many vegetables will go into the ground outdoors.

Inside seed starting

If you’re starting seeds indoors, it’s time to plant tomato and basil seeds if you haven’t already done so.  They germinate in about a week, and you don’t want to put them out into the garden until mid-May, so this is the time.  Peppers that I planted at the beginning of March are now up—they can take two weeks or more to germinate, so it may be too late to plant the seeds now.  If you planted any other seeds earlier this year you may need to transplant them into bigger pots.  I had planted lettuce seed at the beginning of February, and they needed to be re-potted after about four weeks.  After two weeks in their bigger pots I was able to plant them into our new cold frame, and also into the covered bed we maintained all winter.

Two lettuce plants placed into the covered bed.

The back row plants in the cold frame were all started indoors.

Cool season crops outdoors

Outdoors it’s time to start planting early season cool weather crops.  From seed you can plant lettuce, beets and carrots, as they can all tolerate some cold weather and even frosts as they come up.  Plant seed potatoes now, as long as the soil’s not too wet to work.  I usually mulch over the entire area that I’ve planted the potatoes, as this helps them avoid the sun, which causes the green skin condition you see from time to time.

 It’s also time to put out cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower seedlings.  I strongly recommend using row cover fabric over brassicas, as they tend to suffer from caterpillar infestations when the weather warms.  I did a blog last year about row covers and you can refer to that for more information.  The Corner Store Garden Center has seed potatoes and brassica seedlings, in addition to other plants available now.

Plan ahead for mid-season

While you’re out in the garden planting the early crops it’s also a good idea to plan for the mid-season crops.  Things like corn, beans, melons, peppers and tomatoes won’t be going out until danger of frost is past, or mid-May.  Some of them grow quickly and get quite tall and you don’t want them to be shading shorter plants.  Or, maybe you DO want them to shade early crops like spinach and lettuce that suffer in the heat.  You can also get your hoses out of storage and check for leaks, and plan where you might want to set up circuits of soaker hoses.  Plan things out now and you’ll be ready when May rolls around.

Lawn maintenance

I’m sure you’re starting to notice the grass greening up, and this is the time to start preparing for the upcoming mowing season.  Pick up any sticks and branches that have fallen during the winter, and vigorously rake any areas that seem to have a lot of old leaves or thatch built up.  It’s a great time to spread lime on the lawn, as most of us have soil that is more acidic than grass prefers.  It’s also time to apply pre-emergent crabgrass control chemicals if you are planning on doing that.  A general rule is to apply the product when the forsythia is blooming (now!) so the chemicals can prevent the crabgrass seed from germinating.  In general it’s better to wait until fall for general lawn fertilization, but many of the crabgrass products do contain some fertilizer. Problem areas in the lawn may benefit from some fertilizer applied in the spring, but overall you’re just asking to mow more than you probably want to!  Speaking of mowing, I always recommend setting the mower on the highest possible setting, as taller grass is usually healthier, and acts to shade out weeds.  It is called TALL fescue, after all.

Any questions, e-mail me at marklevisay@gmail.com.  Good luck with your 2021 garden!

Indoor seed starting: update and tips for success

by Mark Levisay

It’s been two weeks since I planted my first seeds indoors under my new LED lights and I thought I’d give a quick update on  the progress so far.  Basically all of the seeds have germinated, though I’m still hoping to see a couple more vincas show up that haven’t poked through yet.  I planted three varieties of lettuce and they were the fastest to germinate-all in 4-6 days.

A 6-pack of lettuce seedlings.  The two on the left are “New Red Fire” and already show some of their red coloration.

Since they germinate quickly they are also the first to display the adult leaves.  I am pleased to see that the seedlings are growing low to the soil and in a very compact manner.  This indicates that my new lights are giving them plenty of light for optimal growth.  In dim light the seedlings would be tall and spindly, growing toward whatever light they could find.

Starfighter leaf lettuce seedling.

Now that the lettuce have started to produce their adult leaves I’ll begin to fertilize them, since the seed starter soil doesn’t contain any fertilizer of its own.  This week I’ll add a small amount of a liquid soluble fertilizer (ex. Miracle Gro) to my watering can, and water the lettuce plants with that.  I won’t begin to fertilize the pepper or vinca seedlings until they start to display their adult leaves.

Two pepper seedlings.

The peppers and vinca seeds took almost two weeks to germinate, though some started to appear about ten days after planting. I usually plant two seeds in each starter cup, and as you can see in the photo, both have germinated.  I’ll wait about a week, until all of the seedlings have emerged, and then thin the seedlings, leaving the strongest one in each cup.

Vinca seedlings.

Unlike the peppers, when I have two vinca seedlings in a cup, I’ll let both seedlings grow.  These plants won’t grow nearly as big as the pepper plants, and my wife will either plant the resultant “twin” as it is or split them at planting time.

If you’ve planted multiple seeds in your starter cups, and a few haven’t come up, this is a good time to move some around.  I use a pocket knife to dig a narrow but deep hole in the empty cup, and then “prick out” one of the multiple seedlings from another cup.  Insert the seedling’s long tap root down into the hole, press the soil in around it, and water well.  This way you can have at least one seedling in each cup.

Now that we’re at the mid-point of February, it’s time to start thinking about planting brassica seeds for planting out in the garden in early April.  Cabbage and broccoli seeds germinate quickly, but will take 4-6 weeks to mature indoors.  Then plan for a week of hardening off outside before actually planting in the garden.

March is the time to start tomatoes, basil and peppers

It’s still not time yet to plant warm season seeds like tomatoes and basil, or most peppers.  Early March is a good time to plant pepper seeds, as they take almost 2 weeks to germinate and about 6 weeks to mature indoors.  Basil is similar, though they germinate more quickly but take longer to mature.  Tomatoes germinate in a week or less, but still require 4-5 weeks of indoor growth before hardening off.  Start those seeds in mid-March, with a goal of having them hardened off and planted in the garden around the middle of May, after our average last frost date.

Any questions, e-mail me at marklevisay@gmail.com  Good luck!

Tomatoes in Central Virginia, Part 2: Planting tips

by Mark Levisay

Now that you have a better idea of what varieties of tomatoes you want to plant, let’s talk about how to plant them to maximize their growth throughout the summer. 

Spacing to minimize disease

Proper spacing of the individual plants is important in minimizing the spread of disease later in the summer. Rows should be at least 3’ apart, with the plants in the rows 2-3’ apart. The idea is to get as much sunlight to the plants and promote air movement to minimize fungal diseases. I use soaker hoses throughout my tomato beds, and it helps to have them laid out in addition to your support stakes or poles before you do any planting.

Tomatoes planted and tied to support poles.

Establish strong roots

If you look closely at your tomato plants you’ll notice lots of little “hairs” on the main stem.  These will become roots if they come in contact with the soil, so your goal is to plant your seedlings as deeply as possible for maximum root development.  You’ll also notice two small oval leaves, which you want to pinch off. 

Bury your seedlings to within about 2” of the first set of leaves. Plant them as close as you can to your support stakes or poles and the soaker hose if you’re using it.  Never bury any leaves under the soil as they will rot and cause trouble later.  Mulch thoroughly all around the plants to conserve moisture and prevent soil splash onto the leaves.  (Important note: The soil splash is one of the ways that fungal spores in the soil can come into contact with the tomato plant.) 

Keeping good constant moisture in the soil, without being soggy, is a good way to prevent blossom end rot on the fruit. I use hardwood bark mulch in my tomato bed, but straw works well and you can use newspaper between the plants as well. Water thoroughly after mulching.

Feed plants through the summer

Tomatoes are classified as heavy feeders so it’s important to give them fertilizer of some sort all during the summer. Before I plant, I mix a cup or so of Espoma’s Plant Tone organic fertilizer in the soil where each seedling will go. Mix this in the soil when you dig your hole, and then firm the soil around the plant. You can use a high nitrogen (N) fertilizer at the beginning as you’re trying to promote rapid growth of the new plants.

Once the plants have begun to set lots of green fruit it will be time to add more fertilizer. Use a high nitrogen fertilizer for this application. Two weeks after your first ripe tomatoes, fertilize again, but this time use a fertilizer with a higher phosphorous (P) content, as this helps promote the fruit production. Continue this monthly schedule until fall.

Support plants

I start tying up my tomatoes as soon as they’re tall enough to get the ties around—sometimes even when I plant them.  Tomatoes want to grow UP and I think they do better if you help them climb the poles. Tying up also helps prevent damage from storms and high winds. In addition, we want the plant leaves as far from the soil as possible for disease prevention and the ties will help with upward growth.

To make the ties, I use old sheets or pillowcases torn into ½-3/4” strips about 10-12” long and tie them up after every 6-9” of growth.  I’ve also learned to put a wood or drywall screw into my poles ½ to 2/3 of the way up from the ground on the opposite side from the plants.  Later in the summer when your plants are loaded with fruit they’ll want to sag down and the screws give the ties something to latch on to.

Next time we’ll talk about training, pruning and other cultural practices in the tomato bed.

Have a garden question? Send me an email at marklevisay@gmail.com.

Tomatoes in Central Virginia, Part 1: Choosing the right variety

by Mark Levisay

Without a doubt tomatoes are the most commonly grown garden plants.  Nothing beats the flavor of a home grown tomato picked fresh from the garden—especially after eating the ones offered at the grocery store.  Seed catalogs give you lots of options for starting your own plants and garden centers usually have dozens of varieties ready to go right into your garden. With all of these choices available, how can you choose the right ones for you?

How much room do you have?

Tomatoes come in all sizes. They are usually classed in three groups 1. midget, patio or dwarf, 2. determinate and 3. indeterminate.  These descriptions refer to their growth habit and may affect your varietal choice depending on how much room you have for tomatoes in your garden. The smallest tomatoes are designed for pots or containers and probably won’t need much if any support.  Determinate plants will only grow to a set height (usually 3-4’) and then stop.  They usually need some type of caging or staking, but not as much as the indeterminate types.  Indeterminate tomatoes are the ones that get big—continuing to grow through the season until killed by frost or disease. They’ll need tall stakes or heavy duty cages for support.

Big Beef tomatoes tied up to supports.

How are you going to use them?

Choosing the varieties of tomato for your garden is hard because there are so many choices available!  It seems like tomatoes come in every size and color, so deciding what you want to use the fruit for will help with your decision.  Cherry and “grape” tomatoes are great in salads.  Most slicers and beefsteaks are great for general eating or putting on your BLT at lunch!  Paste tomatoes are often used for canning or sauce production, though I make salsa and spaghetti sauce out of slicers. 

Heirloom varieties

If you’ve never grown tomatoes in your garden before, consider trying an “heirloom” variety.  These are usually older varieties passed down through the generations and prized for their flavor. Many are not disease resistant, so if you’ve grown tomatoes before you may have trouble with them as the disease fungal spores can survive in garden soil for up to five years. 

Disease resistance is critical

In my garden, where I’ve grown tomatoes for 30 years, I look for the most disease resistant varieties I can find.  Many seed catalogs will list the disease resistance (using the abbreviations from the list of diseases below) in the description of each variety.  Generally the more letters listed in the description the better!  For example, in my Park Seed catalog the Better Boy Hybrid is listed as V/F1/N/A/St, giving you an idea of its general disease resistance.

Unfortunately, there are a lot of diseases that affect tomatoes. Eight of them are fungal in nature and will persist in your soil from year to year.  Early Blight (As), Late Blight (LB), Anthracnose (An), Fusarium Wilt (races 1,2,3 F1 F2 F3), Verticillium Wilt (V), Alternaria stem canker/crown wilt (A), Stemphylium gray leaf spot (St) and Septoria leaf spot (L).  You also have Tobacco Mosaic virus (T), Spotted Wilt virus (Swv), Bacterial Wilt (B) and Bacterial Speck (Pst). 

In addition to choosing the right variety, there are some tricks in how you grow the plants in your garden that help a lot, and we’ll explore that at length next time.

And remember, regardless of size, all tomatoes are tender annuals that require full sun and won’t tolerate frost at all. 

Lemon Boy tomatoes ripening in late summer.

My tomato choices

This year in my garden I’m going to grow four different tomatoes.  I’m growing Sweet Million Hybrids, a red cherry variety that is indeterminate  with F/N/L/T resistance.  This variety is very vigorous and usually grows taller than the poles I use (8’ 2x2” posts).  Next is a red grape tomato we’ve come to love, called Juliet Hybrid which is a resistant, indeterminate type that will climb the pole and then climb back to the ground and look for the next pole down the row to climb back up on!  I grow Lemon Boy Hybrid yellow tomatoes which seem to have good disease resistance, maybe a little less acid than the red tomatoes and are indeterminate. They make really good yellow salsa!  My main red slicer is the Big Beef Hybrid, a former AAS winner.  These indeterminate plants have excellent disease resistance and produce loads of baseball to softball size fruits.

Next time I’ll review growing methods to get the most out of your tomato patch.

Have a garden question? Send me an email at marklevisay@gmail.com.

Tomatoes in Central Virginia, Part 3: Growing tips

by Mark Levisay

Now that you’ve got your tomato plants in the ground, how do you care for them to ensure maximum fruit production?  I have found there are several things you can do throughout the growing season to help your plants thrive.

Tomato plants tied to support poles as they grow.

Provide great support

The first thing is to give the plants good support to keep them off the ground and growing vertically.  I use 8’ 2x2” poles to support my plants, though cages can work as well.  Using strips of old sheets or pillowcases I tie the growing leaders to the poles at least every week.  An interval of 4-8” is probably good-more supports will help hold up heavy sets of fruit.  I usually tie just under a node, which is where a leaf comes off the plant’s stem.  Don’t tie them too tight, as the stems will get bigger over the summer and you don’t want to prevent the flow of nutrients up the stems to the leaves and fruit.

Continue tying all summer long, at least until the plant gets to the top of the poles!  The goal here is to keep the plants away from soil splash during heavy rains, as that can infect the plant with fungal spores present in the soil.  The ties and supports also prevent damage from summer storms.

Prune regularly

Secondly we want to prune the plant and train it to grow with two or three main “leaders,” which get tied up to the support.  Tomatoes want to produce many growing shoots and will produce “suckers” at almost every node.  These shoots will produce flowers and fruit if allowed to grow, but the root system will have trouble supporting all of these stems and the plant will be very thick with foliage. 

We also want to encourage air movement within the tomato patch and help more sunlight reach the fruit so it can ripen.  When the plant is 12-18” tall you will notice one or two of the suckers will be really big and robust.  I let one or two grow in addition to the main leader and remove all other suckers that emerge.

A good rule of thumb is to pinch off any suckers on the plant each time you tie the new growth up or roughly once a week.  You’ll even notice suckers that appear where you’ve already pinched one off but remove it again if it appears.  This pruning actually stimulates the plant’s vertical growth which will aid with air movement and sun exposure.

Fertilize strategically

Fertilizing your plants is really important as tomatoes are classed as heavy feeders.  I use Plant Tone organic fertilizer when I plant the seedlings.  Once the first fruit has set, about 2 weeks before your first ripe fruit is expected, fertilize each plant with a fertilizer relatively high in nitrogen (N).  After that, at one month intervals, feed the plant a fertilizer that is higher in Phosphorus (P) as that will help support the flowering and fruit production.  Remember, if you are growing indeterminate plants they will continue to grow, flower and produce fruit until killed by frost or disease.

Keep it clean

To prevent the spread of disease it’s also important to practice good hygiene in your tomato patch.  I generally consider any yellow or brown leaves I see to be diseased and remove them as soon as I can.  Not only remove them from the plant, but from the garden as well.  I don’t even put them in my compost pile, as the fungal spores can survive for up to 5 years in compost or soil, unless your compost pile is really achieving the high temperature needed to kill them (131F for 3 days). 

When in doubt, throw them out!  Your plants will start to look bare at the bottom, but that won’t affect the fruit production if they’re actively growing at the top.  At the end of the season, when your tomato plants are dead, remove all of the old leaves and stems from the garden, and try to plan for having your tomatoes in a different area next year.  Most farmers practice crop rotation, and you should too.

Good luck!

Have a garden question? Send me an email at marklevisay@gmail.com.